May 4

Seoul

Seoul (according to Wikipedia):  Seoul is the capital and largest city of South Korea.  The broader Seoul Metropolitan Area, encompassing Seoul, Gyeonggi Province, and Incheon, emerged as the world's sixth largest metropolitan economy in 2022, behind New York, Tokyo, LA, Paris, and London, and hosts more than half of South Korea's population.  The population of the metropolitan area is over 25 million.

Seoul's history traces back to 18 BC.  In the early 20th century, Seoul was occupied by the Empire of Japan.  The city was liberated by U.S. forces at the end of WWII.  The Korean War (1950-1953) brought fierce battles, with Seoul changing hands four times and leaving the city mostly in ruins.  One estimate of the extensive damage states that after the war at least 191,000 buildings, 55,000 houses, and 1,000 factories lay in ruins.  Nevertheless, the city has since undergone significant reconstruction and rapid urbanization.  After a number of annexations in the last 50 years, the size of Seoul is now approximately 613 square km.  Seoul was rated Asia's most livable city, with the second-highest quality of life globally according to one survey in 2015.  Fifteen Global 500 companies are headquartered here.  

Seoul is geographically set in a mountainous and hilly terrain.  Within the Seoul Capital Area lie 5 UNESCO World Heritage Sites:  Changdeokgung, Hwaseong Fortress, Jongmyo, Namhansanseong, and the Royal Tombs of the Joseon dynasty.  Furthermore, Seoul has witnessed a surge in modern architectural development.  

Seoul is in the northwest of South Korea.  It is roughly bisected into northern and southern halves by the Han River.  The river is no longer actively used for navigation because its estuary is located at the borders of the two Koreas, with civilian entry barred.  

I'm not even going to attempt to capture the history of the area.  I had originally thought I would try to book a day outing to the DMZ, but it doesn't look like I'll have time. BTW - no peace treaty has ever been signed after the Korean War.  It remains a "frozen conflict".  Once I get to Seoul I'll be dealing with a time change; Seoul is 14 hours ahead of the time in Calgary.  Also - a long flight, etc.  So the 4th will be a settling-in day and I have booked 2 walking tours downtown on the 5th.  There are 9 or 10 major subway lines stretching for more than 250 km, so wish me luck trying to find my way around!   

OK.........  all of the above was written before I left Calgary.  And now I'm here..........  It certainly wasn't an early morning for me!  By the time I got up and out it was noon.  I thought I would explore on foot today (those subway lines looked a bit too daunting for my brain fog).  Besides a little exercise would do me good.  Well - by the time I took my watch off at the end of the day I had more than 30,000 steps!  

Observations - very clean (lots of people employed sweeping up any debris), very modern (lots of towers; many of them quite architecturally unique and pleasing), lots of highway infrastructure (wide multi-lane roads, many busses, busy, busy.....), everyone is skinny!

The weather today was lovely - mostly sunny and probably mid-20s.  I walked to where I need to meet my walking tour tomorrow.  Maybe I'll try the subway next time.  The walk took a bit over 2 hours each way.  But - worthwhile just to see a bit of the city and observe some of the local fast-food culture (many Starbucks, lots of Subways. lots of several Korean chains, a few 7-Elevens, just one McDonalds and one Burger King).  Lots of people out and about on the streets.  Certainly the route I took felt very safe and civilized.  I did note in a few places that if you looked a few blocks off the main street things were looking a bit more dilapidated.  But - from what I saw - cleaner, more modern, and safer-feeling than just about any big city I have ever been in.

Some pics from my walk.........

Saw this Outdoor Library concept in two different places.  I was tempted............

Then a huge area with lots of Lego stuff going on.  And some statues mixed in.

A Lego K-Pop concert

King Sejong the Great

BTW - the right arm moves up and down

Found a bus for Carole to drive

I did a quick trip to Gyeongbokgung Palace.  I didn't have time for the tour, so just wandered.  Lots of people rent traditional dress and get in free.  You can also get in free by being old (that's the route I took).  I don't think it's really about the free admission, though (the price is only about $3).  All the folks who were dressed in traditional garb were taking lots of photos of themselves and generally having a blast with it.  

Then - time to head home.  There is a (rather busy) park along the water close to the hotel.  There must have been some big event going on tonight.  Lots of security at all the entrances.  Speaking of security.... I walked by the US Embassy this morning.  Tons of police (and a few signs about suggesting that Mr. Trump step down), big gates, high walls, razor wire, etc.  

 

No wonder everyone here is skinny; dinner in either of the two restaurants on the main floor would have been well over $100.  So - up to the lounge on the 14th floor.  And - a final picture of the day looking north towards where I walked today.

And with that........... bedtime again!