May 23

Matsuyama - Kochi


Today started with a one-hour bus ride out of the city of Matsuyama to Kumakogen.  The weather looked good in Matsuyama this morning, but the forecast for Kochi was about 90% chance of significant rain.  Raingear at the ready………  Also – 10 tunnels to get through. 

Here’s a picture of one of the early tunnels.

 


 And a some road pictures.





A bit of backtracking.  Since our ferry ride a few days ago, we’ve been on the island of Shikoku.  The island is the smallest of Japan’s four main islands.  Matsuyama is the biggest city on the island. 

There is a famous walk on the island called the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, a 1200-year-old, 1200 km circular route around the island.  Associated with the Buddhist monk Kukai, the journey draws thousands of pilgrims annually seeking spiritual awakening, cultural connection, or physical endurance.  The temples span all four of Shikoku’s prefectures, each representing a distinct stage of the journey:

Tokushima (temples 1-23):  Awakening

Kochi (temples 24-39):  Ascetic Training

Ehime (temples 40-65):  Enlightenment

Kagawa (temples 66-88):  Nirvana

At km 11 today we came to the Iwaya Temple.  This is temple # 45.  A sampling of the pics from there.



















We met lots of pilgrims on their way up (and down).  Traditional pilgrim gear includes:  a white vest/jacket (symbolizes purity and equality), a sedge hat (protects from the sun and rain), a walking stick (represents Kubai traveling with you). 

It had started to spit just before reaching the temple, and started to rain a bit more right after.  So – away went the camera.  A shame, really, because it was a spectacular ride from there to lunch (at about 40 km).  A narrow, winding road with steep, lush, green moutainsides interlocking and coming right down to the road.  Riding through the mist and the moss was just magical!  And next to no traffic. 

Apparently these trees are Japanese cedars.


Rice ready to be planted.


A few shots of the terrain.  So much moss everywhere.  I don’t think this damp weather is unusual! 






 After lunch the landscape opened up quite a bit and we eventually came into an ever-widening river valley as we approached the port city of Kochi.  But – still incredibly green and lush.  Also in the afternoon the rain intensified and came down quite hard at times.  But – a warm rain, and I was happier to be wet than to put on a rain jacket for the most part.  Very pleasant temperature – high teens most of the day.  Very few pictures.  One little bump in the afternoon, and mostly downhill.  Honestly – the hills were all very gentle grades and it felt like we went downhill just about all day.  A very easy day for the advertised 1500m of climbing.  The tunnel at the top of the last hill was 3 km long.  Dead straight; you could see the light at the end of the tunnel right from the outset. 

 


Stopped at a “coke stop” which had a little crafty place next door.  Never heard of “masking tape painting” before.


Also made a brief stop at a paper museum, but just strolled through the gift shop.  I guess I really shouldn’t make any of these extra stops.  Together with natural slowness, it puts me at the back and I detest having the sweep right behind me.  I made a request to the lead guide today to have the sweep just keep on riding if I’m at the back; I can’t enjoy the ride if I know I’m holding someone up.  I know it makes no sense, but I can’t shake it……….

Coming into Kochi we had a pedestrian overpass to get up and over. 


Nice park by the river, but not as well kept as most of the ones we saw in South Korea.   A general comment on South Korea vs Japan, so far.  South Korea seems so much more modern and “organized” than what we’ve seen in Japan.  The buildings here seems older, less artistic, and many in need of maintenance.  Urban planning seems much more haphazard.  The people are very friendly here (as they were in SK), though, and seem to exhibit a bit more individualism in their manner of dress. 

 

And a lovely bird of paradise to welcome us to the city.


Before dinner I went down to lube my chain.  It was surprisingly not gunked-up from several days of rain.  “Clean” would be inaccurate, but not as filthy as I thought it would be.  One fellow blew out his bottom bracket today and another woman’s is on life support; parts ordered for Kyoto.  I think, generally, the bikes are holding up well.  

After dinner I joined some of the boys for a little walk over to the train station.  Found a few interesting things along the way.




A lower chance of rain tomorrow.  Another big climbing day.

 

Stats for the Day:

Garmin:  87.57 km.  (lost some km in the tunnels).  2255 feet up (I think cloud cover missed some of the climbing).  3968 feet down. 

RWGPS:  91.8 km.  1504m up.  2001 m down. 



Kochi

Population:  320,000

AI Summary:  Kochi, located on Shikoku Island's southern coast, is a scenic, historic, and remote city known for its original 17-th century castle, vibrant Sunday markets, and the picturesque Shimanto River.  It offers a warm climate, fresh katsuo no tataki (seared bonito) seafood, and rich history as the birthplace of samurai Sakamoto Ryoma.  






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